Tents amidst pine trees

A view of the Bastion from Mohand Marg camp

Snow melting at the coming of summer, Mohand Marg

“I write this on the evening of a happy day which brought me back to my incomparable Marg after practically thirteen and half years absence, for a short hurried visit on November, 1-2, 1905, could scarcely count. You can imagine how glad I was when the melting of the snow at last allowed me to effect the long delayed ascent. I claimed my mountain retreat in a glorious weather and found to my delight that though the snow is still abundant on the plateau, my own little ridge was sufficiently clear for my tents to be pitched again where they always stood. Nothing has changed here in loveliness and grandeur and I am full of gratitude to Fate which has made the return possible.” - Aurel Stein.

(in a letter dated June 1, 1912, by Aurel Stein to Fred Andrews.) Stein Mss 40, Bodleian Library, Oxford.

Lang Marg near Gratawath Pass

Mohand Marg from Kanyadalav

Haramukh peaks from Marg Camp

“The Marg is still lovely though my finest flowers are fast disappearing. However there are autumnal tints to make up for their colours.” - Aurel Stein.

(in a letter dated August 31, 1912, by Aurel Stein to Fred Andrews.) Stein Mss 40, Bodleian Library, Oxford.

And no wonder Stein’s British Indian passport showing Kashmir as the place of domicile was a symbolic expression of his love for Mohand Marg.

Mohand Marg Camp view in winter